Sound Deadening S-197 Mustang Convertible

Product : FATMAT RattleTrap (can get on Amazon or ebay for about  $2+ per sq ft). It’s 18 inches wide and length of roll depends on how much you buy.  There are other similar products but this seemed like the best value and quality for reasonable cost.

How much : Doors – about 25 sq ft. Rear seat area – about 12 sq ft. Trunk – almost 50 sq ft. Under front seats and floor – didn’t do there yet, but estimate another 25 to 50 sq ft. A lot of places, it will get overlapped, so you use more than you expect.

Tips : cut into strips about 3, 4 & 5 inches wide for most areas.  This allows you to get it to follow all the unevenness. If you see a big flat area, can cut bigger. The biggest I cut was about 12 inches. You can butt it at the joints or overlap it, it really doesn’t matter. You’ll end up doing both. Use the small roller to roll it onto the metal. Press hard, and also wear gloves. Fingers work well for pressing it into recessed areas, and to follow all the contours. Take pictures and make notes where all the wires and clips go. When you put the RattleTrap on, it’s hard to find the holes for the clips, and where all the wires go. I tried to keep the wires exposed and not under the RattleTrap.

Installation : Doors – put it on the inside of the outer skin and also inside of the inner skin. First remove the plastic watershield.  I tried to use the 2 plastic “pockets” from the watershield and put rattletrap on them, but found after putting the doorpanel back on, it was too much and interfered with the window mechanism. So, I had to cut them out. The 2nd door (passenger), I just left those 2 areas open with no rattletrap. Rear seat and trunk areas – pretty basic here. Just put it everywhere you can, including inside the rear fenders. I also sprayed some rubberized undercoating in areas I couldn’t reach.

Notes : removing door panels, be aware there are 3 hidden screws.  2 T-30 screws under doorhandle and arm rest, and 7 mm screw under window switch near subwoofer (see pictures).

Time : A lot longer than you’d expect. Doors 2-4 hrs each. Rear seat area – 2-4 hrs. Trunk 3-6 hrs.

Result : car is quieter, but still hear road noise through front seat floor area. Muffler drone noise is still annoying around 2500 RPM, but not as bad as before. Traffic aside you is noticeably quieter. Doing both door skins seems effective. Audio system sounds noticeably better and clearer.

by richmca

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Removing door panel (3 hidden screws)

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2nd

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3rd

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Driver door before RattleTrap

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Driver door after RattleTrap. Note plastic pockets re-installed – don’t do this because it’s too much and interferes with the window going up and down.

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Driver door during installation (not completed yet)

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RattleTrap on inner door panel

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Subwoofer (Shaker 500) – took it out just to see how it’s attached. Has a screw from backside of panel into the magnet.

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Driver door after cutting out the plastic pockets

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Passenger door before RattleTrap

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Passenger door with RattleTrap. Note – didn’t use the plastic pockets. Instead leave the area open.

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Rear seat area with RattleTrap

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Driver side rear seat area with RattleTrap

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Passenger side rear seat area with RattleTrap

 

 

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