|Another weak link in your stock Ford 8.8 rear end are the Axles. Moser makes forged steel street axles for your stock Mustang applications. They are built in the USA and hey are non-tapered, with hardened & ground bearing seats and machined c-clip grooves. If you are going to do some serious drag racing or other motorsport events. Then a pair of these is going to give you piece of mind.|
|These are specific 8.8″ rear end Ford 31 spline Axles – Fits 2005 & newer Mustang 5 lug This also has the ABS adapter ring so you can put the ABS ring on it. It does not come with it pre-installed.|
|The Axles come sans stickers and studs just peel and stick.|
|Be sure to wipe it clean first and then stick it on.|
|The C-clip groove is the same size as factory, but does not use an o-ring for the wavetrac diff install.|
Moser Sends you two sets of new wider, stronger c-clips. Also a special tool to help install and take out these c-clips out of the Wavetrac® differential.
I ended up having too much lateral shaft movement they sent me a third thicker set of c-clips and they worked great.
|Here is the factory Axle end.|
|The splines are longer down the shaft and deeper than factory axles.|
|Moser also has new studs. They are Knurl Press-In Grade 8 Wheel Studs.|
|Here is the aforementioned Mustang ABS Stater Ring.|
Moser also wanted to showcase their new Wavetrac Differential. This is a Ford 8.8” 31 Spline WAVETRAC® Differential. The Wavetrac® differential is built from the highest quality materials available. The internal gears are made from high strength 9310 alloy steel. The bodies are machined from case hardened steel billet. To complete the package, every Wavetrac® uses high strength fasteners from ARP® The Wavetrac® comes with a lifetime warranty.
This differential is very different than your stock Limited Slip Differential. You can read more on Mosers website, but I will summarize it here. All gear LSDs work in basically the same manner: they divide the drive torque between the two axles, applying drive to each side.
An LSD with a typical bias ratio of 2.5:1 will apply drive torque to the wheel with the most traction (gripping wheel) at 2.5 times the traction limit of the wheel with the least traction (slipping wheel). The problem with this is that when one tire has LITTLE or NO grip (zero axle-load), the other wheel gets ZERO DRIVE.
There are two times with this in not good for performance driving. First is during the transition from accel to decel, where you have near zero torque on the axle, even if both tires are on the ground, the typical diff is unable to begin applying drive torque until AFTER the zero torque condition is over. While this condition is generally short-lived, the fact that most diffs can do nothing during that time means that there will be a delay once the zero torque condition stops – creating a reaction time in the driveline.
The second time is when you lift a wheel (or substantially unload a wheel) and you get zero axle-load on that side – that means that during the time the wheel is unloaded, the typical diff will NOT power the wheel that’s still on the ground. No matter how high the bias ratio, you get no power to the ground.
What this WAvetrac® differential does for you as a driver is deliver power to the gripping wheels for more time and in a more constant manner – making you faster and improving stability.
Now lets get to the install. If you like you can also reference the Mustang rear gear install I did before.
|Drain your fluid and then remove your diff cover. Capture it and keep it if you have expensive synthetic fluid. But note the wavetrac® does not use synthetic gear oil it uses 80-90 dino oil.|
|Be sure to pick up a rear end install kit before you start.|
|Here is the stock LSD differential. The Black bar is the Swarr bar.|
|Next move to the other side and remove your driveshaft. We were able to just take it off the pinion yoke and hold it up with a pole jack.|
|We then started working on the axles. Start with the wheel and then the brake caliper.|
|Be sure not to let it hang. Wire it up or set it on the lower control arm.|
|Before you can pull the axles you have pull the c-clips. First you have to pull the center pin.|
|Then you can pull the center spring.|
|Now you can pull the stock axles. They will have some gear oil on them so be prepared for drip and whipe down.|
|Pull the main caps and then you can remove the differential.|
|Here is the pumpkin with the differential out. You can see the pinion gear in the back.|
|Now you can pull the pinon gear.|
|Now your can remove the bearing and use a new one that comes with the install kit.|
|The installation of the new bearing requires a special tool.|
|now you can put the pinion gear back into place|
|Now you can attach the flange back to it. Plus this pulls it in tight.|
|Now back to the new Wavetrac ® diff. We press on new bearings.|
|Now its time to put on the rear gear onto the diff. This did require some gentile persuasion. And you have to do it evenly.|
|Get your shims ready.|
|Choose your shims and place the diff back into the housing.|
|Then bolt it down.|
|now time to check the backlash. We found two specs 11-15 and 3-6. Last time we set it up to 11 and it was loud. This time we set it to 4 and its very quiet. Not perfect but good.|
|The install kit come with some indicator paint. This will show you how the gears are meshing together. This is were you want to trust someone with lots of experience to read the pattern and give it the thumbs up.|
|Once you are happy with the gear setup then back to the axles. I elected to get new ABS rings and not try to pull them off my old factory axles. That seemed like a lot of work and the might warp or break taking them off. Ford Part # 2C189 and they call it a ABS Ring. $28 each.|
|Yes they have to be pressed on. And you have to go slow and easy. They will break if you get too far off angle.|
|Now you can put your new axles in. You have to line the groves up so they will slide into the diff.|
Here is a pic of the abs ring and that black post is the abs sensor.
Once both axles are in then you can put the c-clips on. The wavetrac® diff is tight. A special tool is supplied for installation and removal. You will however have to punch it in to seat it completely.
Then you turn the axles and then will have access to the other c-clip.
|Now to put the new wheel studs in.|
|Place a bearing over the stud and use an impact to pull them in tight.|
|Repeat until you have all five in good and tight. Now get out there and drive the heck out of it.|
|Reassemble your rear end and other suspension components and then enjoy your new set up. Also of very important note the Wavetrac diff uses 80-90 non synthetic gear oil.|