If you’ve lowered your 2010+ S197 Mustang, you may want to look into BMR Suspension’s Control Arm Relocation Brackets (CABs) and Spherical Bearing Lower Control Arms (LCAs). This combination and others like it might just be the cure to any wheel hop woes you may be experiencing with your Mustang’s altered ride height. Additionally, it is one of the simplest, cheapest combination of modifications known to help cut into drag race ET’s. Regardless of ride height, they can help your rear wheels hold traction, by replacing the flimsy stock arms and rubber bushings.
Throughout this process, I made use of 15mm, 18mm, and 22mm sockets and wrenches, a small prybar and a mallet. Additionally, I used two jacks (no low-profile jack) and a family of jackstands. The 18mm sizes are used for removal and reinstallation of the stock bolts. The 22mm sizes are used on the new large bolts and nuts, while the 15mm’s are used for only on thin pair of bolts used to reinforce the inboard side of the Control Arm Brackets.
|Another look. Between the two images, you can make out the marbling of the Black Hammertone. Note the thickness of the steel used to reinforce the Control Arm Brackets – They mean business.|
Start by jacking your car up. Always observe some common sense safety and block your front wheels. Since my car is facing forward on a downgrade, I did not chock the aft ends. Once your car is placed on jackstands, remove the rear wheels.
Since I am replacing my control arms, I took this moment to release the parking brake and disconnect the cables from the rear brakes.
|To do this, you’ll need to remove the retaining clip on the parking brakes. This little guy (a). BMR’s instructions call for using a screwdriver; It came off with a solid grip and a little wiggling.|
|Once you’ve removed the clip, support and lift the line while twisting the end so it falls through it’s retainer (b). Then, feed the line through, over or under your control arm to get it out of the way (c).|
To finish removing the Lower Control Arms, remove the bolts connecting them to the frame mounts. These can be accessed from near the wheel well, with the bolt head towards the exterior of the car. (Visible two images back) Like many of the nuts on the S197, the forward nuts are clipped for easy bolt installation, but they are also self-retaining, so they’ll stay in place once you remove the Lower Control Arms.
|From the left side of the axle, remove the bolt retaining the panhard bar (e). Once the surfaces have been sanded, slide the CAB into position (f). This can require a lot of muscle and a mallet will help.|
Repeat this process for the right side.
|With everything in place, tighten it all down. Refer to your specific install guide for torque values.|
|Here you can see where my stock 2011 V6 PP (GT500) Control Arm was chafing into the brake line. Felix had a moderate amount of wire loom tubing lying about, so I threw some at the brake lines before securing them with a zipties.|
Installation of the Control Arm Brackets and Lower Control Arms is complete at this point. Throw on your wheels, drop your car to the ground, and feel out your suspension changes. (?) In case anyone else experiences the same tightness issues, our improvised reverse-vise consisted of all used hardware: a long-threaded bolt, a dozen washers and two nuts. Good luck, enjoy, and JOIN THE FORUMS!
-J. “FiK” Smathers