The factory sway Bars, or their correct name; Anti-sway bars, or sometimes anti-roll bars are responsible for keeping your car’s body from rolling from side to side. The more stable your body roll the less weight that will roll over the center mass and create either over-steer or under-steer conditions.
There are a few different companies that make Sway bars for your Mustang. But the Eibach Mustang Sway Bar Set is one of the top aftermarket replacements out there. I was speaking with Hector at CFM and picked up a set from him.
The front tubular sway bar is 36mm in diameter and the rear is 25mm diameter. Each millimeter larger is about 80% more strength. The front bar is tubular to save weight and it is adjustable so you can choose from 3 settings.
|Eibach S-197 Mustang Front Anti Sway Bar. 36mm|
|Eibach S-197 Mustang Rear Anti Sway Bar. 25mm|
|Eibach S-197 Mustang Anti Sway Bar Shock Tower Mount. Remember They do not have the same bolt pattern as stock.|
Big note; Eibach for some strange reason changed the bolt spacing on their Shock Tower Mount. These will not work with a sway bar relocation kit. I ended up having a custom relocation kit made.
The Eibach unit does still work on a factory set up because they take advantage of a slot that is on the factory mounting location. This is why they have that bar for the bottom.
|Here are the extra beefy rear sway bar end links.|
|Here they are compared to the stock rear hangers. They are shorter and will hold the bar closer to the body and they are much thicker enabling them to be more rigid.|
|Here are the Eibach S-197 Mustang Anti Sway Bar Front Mount. These do have the same bolt pattern as stock.|
|Eibach packaged them extremely well.|
Now take off both sides of the sway bar mounts at the shock tower.
|Now you can pull off the two end links at the Chassis.|
|They included two washers with the new end links. I put one the inside to take up the slack in space. I put the other one on the nut side.|
I lost a few photos in-between taking them and getting them organized on the computer.
Grease the bushing with the supplied white grease. Then place the bushing on the sway bar. Then grease the end link and push rear sway bar into the end link. It takes some persuasion but it will go. Then place the rear cap on and tighten the two hex bolts.
|BMR has an area cut out of their LCA relocation bars but this only works on the shape of the factory bars. On the shorter bar and the suspension fully unloaded it rubs the corner.|
|So gridded out a little of the material out so it would not hit when fully unloaded.|
|Here is the rear bar fully installed. You can also see the Granatelli Blue panhard brace and the BMR adjustable parnhard bar and the Swarr Bar and the SVE lower control arms and last the shaftmasters aluminum driveshaft.|
|Now lets move to the front. Pull off the lower sway bar end link.|
|There are two small bolts holding on the splash shield and its connected to a radiator support member. You don’t have to remove the front lower shield just pull the rear bolts and then you can work your way onto the front bolts.|
|Here is what that support bar looks like. Note the rear has two nuts and they slide off so you do not have to remove them. This helps you hold it on without it dropping.|
|Now you have full access to the front bar.|
|There are four nuts holding the front bar on. Now you can easily maneuver the bar out.|
|Now slide the new bar in and bolt it down.|
Then reattach your end links. The Middle position is similar to stock. The 3rd or furthest hole is for soft and this reduces under-steer and is good for slick roads. The 1st or closest hole reduces over-steer However this is not good for slick roads.
Put your bar and tray back on and enjoy!