Starkey Products 2010-2012 Mustang V6 Foglight Kit


From 1994 to 2004, the V6 Ford Mustang was not endowed with fog lights. It was not until the 2005-2009 body style made its debut that V6 Mustang owners had a chance to get factory fog lights on their cars. When Ford gave the 2010-2012 Mustang a facelift, the V6’s unique front fascia finally got its own pair of fog light coves. While the premium V6 came with lights in those coves, the base model V6 did not. What Starkey Products has done is put together an inexpensive but seriously high quality fog light kit for just those V6 Mustangs.

Starkey’s kit combines OEM lights and housings with a wiring harness that is superior to the factory alternative. Their kit also includes an OEM Ford headlight switch that not only operates the new fog lights, but also gives your car the Auto Headlamp feature that was present on the premium cars. This feature uses a factory sensor, already present on every 2010-2012 Mustang, to turn on the headlamps when the sun goes down. The wiring also allows the fog lights to be used as daytime running lights for added safety and style.

Once installed, your car will look like it rolled off of the factory floor with these lights, and the quality will match. No other fog light kit for the 2010-2012 V6 Ford Mustangs is even remotely close to this kit in terms of quality. Starkey is so sure of their product that they support it with a full 12 month warranty and some of the finest customer service in the industry.


To begin your installation of the Starkey fog light kit, you will need to gather the necessary tools. These should include: a flat head screwdriver, a ratchet and socket set, and a small knife or razor blade. I also found a pair of long-nosed pliers helpful when working inside the fuse box.
Once you have gathered the appropriate tools, you will need to raise the front end of your car by several inches. You can use ramps, jack stands, or a lift. Whichever method you choose, be sure to properly secure the car utilizing the handbrake and wheel chocks and be sure to use proper jack points.
Next you will need to remove the plastic bezel inserts in the fog light points. Wrap a cloth or rag around the flat head screwdriver and GENTLY pry out from the side closest to the center of the car. These are secured by two plastic tabs on each side of the insert, but only the ones on the inside can be pried out without causing damage.
Remove the splash guard from the underside of the car. It is secured in place by (9) 7mm screws. Be sure to retain these screws for re-installation.
Install the fog lights from behind the bumper and use the (6) included screws to attach the lights to the bumper. Both lights are identical and can be installed on either side. Note: It is beneficial to install the lights with the electrical connector facing down.
Install the included plastic fog light bezels into the front of the bumper. Start by aligning the two tabs on the outside edge and then gently push in the inner tabs until they lock into place.
Under the hood, start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal with an 8mm socket and securing the cable so that it does not make contact with any metal. This is an important step and must not be skipped.
Remove the black plastic panel attached to the bumper and radiator support. To do this remove all (8) plastic retainers by first prying up on the center button and then prying out the whole retainer body. Once all (8) retainers are removed, lift the panel out and set it aside. Retain the plastic pins you removed.
Locate the fuse box on the passenger side near the washer fluid filler neck and open the lid.
Inside the fuse box, locate the 12 volt supply cable that enters the box where the lid closes.
Remove the nut securing the cable to the fuse box. Be careful to keep your ratchet from making contact with any metal parts while it is in contact with the cable or its securing nut. This can cause the electrical system to ground out and may damage the system.
Locate the orange wire on the wiring harness for the fog light kit. It has a metal ring terminal on the end. Slide the ring terminal over the stud you just removed the securing nut from and then reinstall the securing nut.
Locate the fuse in position 39 and gently pull it out using long nose pliers. Replace it with the supplied fuse with fuse tap attached. Install it with the fuse tap facing the driver side of the car.
Locate the short red wire on the fog light wiring harness. Connect it to the fuse tap on the fuse you just installed. Route the wire out of the fuse box near the 12 volt supply cable you worked on earlier.
Locate the ground cable attached to the radiator support in front of the wiper fluid filler neck.

Locate the black ground wire on the wiring harness and using a 10mm socket, attach it to the ground point on the radiator support.

Locate the wiring for the driver side fog light and route it over the radiator by following the existing group of cables.
Run the wiring for each fog light down to the fog light locations and secure them in place with zip-ties. Connect the fog light connectors to each fog light under the car.
Route the control wires around the engine compartment and up to the firewall in front of the driver side. Locate the black plastic grommet in the driver side firewall. It can be found between the fender and brake booster. Using a knife or razor blade, cut an “X” in the grommet to allow you to push the wiring through.
Push the control wiring through the grommet.
Inside the car and on the driver side, locate the headlamp switch. Use a flat head screw driver wrapped in a cloth or rag to gently pry out the top left side of the switch housing. Do not pry out the whole switch as the housing may be secured to the dash by a screw.
Using your cloth and screw driver, pry down the dash panel located just below the switch. On the bottom left hand corner of the switch is a small screw. Carefully remove this screw. You can now pull the head light switch panel out of the dash and disconnect the wires.
To remove the headlight switch from the panel housing, release the three small tabs that secure the switch to the housing and slide it out. Install the new headlight switch into the panel.
In the bundle of wires that plugs into the back of the switch, you will need to locate the first wire listed in the instructions included with the kit. You may need to unwrap the covering from around the bundle of wires to better access the individual wires. Using one of the supplied red wire taps, close the tap around the wire and snap it shut. DO NOT CUT THE WIRE. Connect the blue wire from the fog light harness to the connector you just installed.
Locate the second wire listed in the instructions and connect the other wiretap to it. Connect the red wire from the harness to this connector.
Reconnect the wiring bundle to the new switch you just installed. Reinstall the headlamp switch and panel into the dash. Make sure to replace the screw you removed earlier. Ensure that the dash panel under the switch is pressed back into place.
Back under the hood of the car, reconnect the negative battery terminal to the battery.
Reinstall the radiator cover using the plastic retainers you removed it earlier.
Adjust your fog lights by turning them on and positioning the car about 10 feet from a wall. Use the knob on the bottom of each light to adjust them until they are at the same level.

Reinstall the splash guard with the screws you removed earlier.

Installation is now complete.


Enjoy your new Starkey Products fog light kit! You will certainly be happy with the added styling and safety provided by this kit. To activate the fog lights, simply select any of the positions on the switch other than “Off” and pull the knob toward you. The fog lights can be left in their “On” position with the switch set to “Auto” and the fog lights will automatically turn off when you turn off the engine. In this configuration they will act as daytime running lights and improve your visibility to others. Also note that with this kit the fog lights will not deactivate when you engage your high beams, giving you even more visibility in extremely low light situations.


This article and all pictures associated with it are the property and work of Wayde Sutton.


Thanks go to Jason at Starkey Products Inc. for the kit and plenty of support.