Boost Guage and Roush A/C Vent Gauge Pod

The new ROUSH Vent Gauge Pod is cleverly designed to integrate into your 2010-2012 Mustangs Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) vents. Installation is fairly simple. The vent gauge pod then replaces the factory louvers without cutting, drilling, or trimming of your dash. There is no very little loss of air flow for the cooling and heating functions.The unit is low profile and designed to match the interior of the vehicle. It will house any standard 2-1/16 inch gauge. You might however have to clear some of the pod plastic for large hoses or wires. the instructions from Roush were pretty good but I have of course tried to shoot a few more pics for extra clarity.
Here is the gauge pod out of the box. I picked this up from the team over at Late Model Restoration. They have a ton of items in stock and ready to ship out.The quality is nice and as good as the OEM plastic.
Here is my black face autometer ProCharger Branded Boost Gauge. This was a test fit before pushing it all the way down. Its a snug fit so you do not want to mess around before you are ready to push it down.
First we need to pull the dash and housing. Just pull straight out on the dash panel it will come right off.
Here is a side shot of what it looks like fully disengaged.
Here are the clips you have to push to release the vent from the dash.
You only have to release the inner pod and not the whole trim ring if you don’t want to.
Push the tiny tabs in and they will release the fins. There are two sets.
Here are both sets of fins removed from the pod housing.
Now you can push the Roush pod into the factory housing. There are notches so that it lines up properly.
I then put pipe thread on the fitting and installed it onto the gauge.Note: This barbed fitting, the male barbed fitting and the hose were all purchased separately from the gaugeThe gauge came with a compression fitting and a nylon hose.
Now we need to route the pressure hose I am using on this gauge. Here is the factory grommet location. I pulled it out to run the hose through.
Here is a the view from the floorboard. That orange spot in the middle is the hole in the firewall.
I cut a hole in the grommet and then ran my line through it. The grommet included with the gauge was too small to fit in this factory location.
Put the grommet back into place.
Here is my Procharger T-brick that came with the supercharger. I installed the male barb into it and then cut and ran the hose.
I then loosely zip-tied the hose to the existing wire loom.
Now back to the dash so we can install the gauge and with it the wiring.The left hand control assembly has one bolt on the bottom. Then there is one tab inside and it comes right out. See next photo for tab on the left side.Note: You do not have to pull the knob.
As you can see I already brought the hose through. I also zip-tied it loosely inside so it would not droop.
Get your test light out and find the hot wire. This one for me was purple.
This bolt off to the side is where I connected a round end and then used this for my ground.
I added a short bit of wire so that it would reach the gauge while it was still hanging off the dash. I then used a quick connector to attach it to the power side.Thanks V6MP members for helping me locate this wire quickly.
Push your gauge all the way in and put the pod back on the dash. Note that I also trimmed a notch in the factory ducting so the pressure hose would not get pinched.
Put it all back together and enjoy!