Written by Ross Hevener
Ford’s latest generation of Mustangs is able to reach jail-worthy speeds without breaking a sweat. With all this power at our disposal, it’s nice to have a little extra insurance in the form of a radar detector – the Valentine One (V1) in this case.
Many radar detector users prefer the clean and professional look of a hard wire installation over the use of a cigarette lighter power adapter.
While any project that involves interior wiring can seem daunting, with a little preparation, you can knock out a V1 hard wire (direct wire) installation in about an hour.
This how-to will cover hard wiring the V1, as well as the optional concealed display. If you don’t have the concealed display, simply skip the steps that are concealed display-specific.
|What you need
Valentine One (obviously)
Mount of your choice – I used the suction cup mount, but this guide will work for virtually any type of mount
Direct-wire power adapter (included with the V1)
8’ RJ11 telephone cable – For powering the V1 (included with the V1)
14’ – 15’ RJ11 telephone cable – For powering the concealed display (the concealed display includes an 8’ telephone cable, but this cable is not long enough for this application)
Add-a-circuit for ATM fuses
Wire strippers, cutters, and crimpers
Sticky-back Velcro and/or double-sided tape
10mm deep well socket
¼” flat washer (for hooking up the ground connection)
¼” ring terminal connector for 16-14 gauge wire (optional, but highly recommended)
|Prepare the direct-wire power adapter
Look at the leads on the direct-wire power adapter. The positive (hot) wire will have a female spade connector, and the negative (ground) lead will have a fork connector.
Snip off the spade connector and solder or crimp the add-a-circuit onto the positive lead.
If you opted to get a ¼” ring connector, snip off the fork connector and crimp it on. You can get away with using the fork connector, but the ring connector will give you a more secure connection.
Insert the top fuse into the add-a-circuit as shown below. I used a 5 amp fuse because it’s what I had on hand. A 2 amp fuse will also work. This fuse isn’t critical because the direct-wire power adapter has its own fuse holder with a 2 amp fuse that will blow if anything goes wrong.
Insert the 5 amp/2 amp fuse in the top slot. Don’t worry about the 10 amp fuse yet. We’ll get to that later.
Remove the A-pillar covers
Mount your V1
Run the concealed display cable
There is a small gap between the dash and the A-pillars where you can drop the cables down.
Tuck the cable into the headliner and run it over to the passenger’s side. Drop the other end of the cable down and route it to the SJB.
|Run the detector power cable
Drop one end of the cable down the passenger’s side A-pillar and route it to the SJB. After that, tuck the cable into the headliner and plug it into the detector. Tie a knot in the cable where it exits the headliner and tuck the knot in. This will keep the cable from falling out.
The power and concealed display cables running down the passenger’s side A-pillar
Mount the concealed display
Tilt the wheel all the way up and slip the cable between the steering column and the dash
If your car has the base gauge cluster, the concealed display will fit into the area of empty space below the temperature and fuel gauges almost perfectly.
If your car has the premium gauge cluster, I recommend mounting the concealed display on top of the steering column.
Once you’ve determined where you want the concealed display, mount it using some Velcro.
|If your car has the base gauge cluster, the concealed display will fit into the area of empty space below the temperature and fuel gauges almost perfectly.|
Hook up the positive lead
Next, plug the add-a-circuit into the SJB. For accessories like this, you generally want to use a switched circuit (meaning that the circuit turns on and off with the key).
In this instance, I used circuit #37. This is a switched circuit with a 10 amp fuse. This circuit is hot when the key is in the “start” and “run” positions.
Remove fuse #37 and insert it into the bottom of your add-a-circuit as shown in the illustration above. There is a little white fuse puller on the back of the fuse cover that you can use for this.
Once you have that done, insert the add-a-circuit into the SJB where the fuse used to be. You want to insert it so that the red wire is pointing towards the rear of the car.
The add-a-circuit installed in the SJB (Sorry for the crappy picture quality. It’s extremely difficult to photograph the SJB due to the tight space.)
Wire up the ground
Test everything out
Notch the fuse panel cover
I used wire cutters to cut a small notch in the cover for the wire to run through. See the pictures below for the location of the notch.
Due to the added thickness of the add-a-circuit, the fuse panel won’t snap back on completely. Personally, I’m not worried about it because the panel still snaps on securely enough not to fall off. If you’re not comfortable with this, grab a Dremel and get creative.
Tidy up the wiring and re-assemble
When you’re satisfied with the wiring, put everything back together and go for a drive!