Running on the race track with a supercharger is going to yield higher intake temps than an NA car. If you are running on a hot day then you most likely will be pushing the limits of your Mustang’s coolant system.
I had experienced this first hand while running at Hallet Motor Circuit in June 2011. A normal session would last 8 laps and I was overheating around lap 6. Installing a larger radiator is one solution but that was not in the cards for my trip to Hallet in June of 2012.
So while talking to the guys over at MC Racing they told me about Evans Waterless Coolant. They put me in touch with Chris Jones of Prolubricants. Chris is the Evans coolant distributor for this region and he was interested in testing the product in a motorsports situation.
Evans Waterless Coolant allows engines to tolerate higher temperatures. It does not boil until 375 Deg F. Unlike conventional coolants, Evans Waterless Coolant has the ability to run at low or no pressure. This lower system pressure reduces the stress on your car’s hoses, gaskets, and other cooling system components. Plus motors operating with Evans Coolant are free from electrolysis and corrosion. It pays for itself over its lifetime and is warrantied for the life of the engine. Plus you if want you can re-tune your motor to work at higher temps. This is its primary purpose in motorsports.
Evans Coolant is safe for use with all metals and is environmentally friendly. It lasts the lifetime of your car and does not require any cooling system modifications. You can read more about Evans Coolant and a place from where to buy it on the Prolubricants website.
When I was at Hallet in June 2012 I was running the Evans Coolant I discovered my Mustang started to overhead at a ECU temp reading of 240 Deg. F. I then pushed then car two more laps and it got to about 155 Deg. F and I had complete confidence in the product as I know it was not boiling and creating any greater pressure on the system. I also knew it was maintaining full fluid contact with the cylinder walls and heads to keep pulling heat out. I reaped this two more times that day and it passed with flying colors. I am very happy with this product.
|Here is a picture of the Evans bottle if you happen to see it on a shelf. Maybe at a performance shop but this stuff is not at your local auto parts store.|
|When you are ready to get started you need to turn your heater on as to make sure you heater core opens up.|
|Pull your lower trays to gain access to the radiator.|
|It your car is hot then cool it down faster with a fan.|
|Once its cool enough then remove your radiator cap.|
|Pull your drain plug. Center of the screen. Its a plastic screw type. It has a hex head hole but its only supposed to be on finger tight. If you break it then your local Ford dealer will want $12 for a new one.|
|Have a catch can ready to catch your coolant. Get it nice and close because later when you blow air through the system then it will spray and make a bit of a mess.|
Use a clean high powered vacuum in reverse and blow out all your coolant.
Since I had been running a water and glycol coolant mix we decided to run some Evans prep fluid though the system.
The Evans coolant needs to have less than 5% water content in order to maintain its higher properties.
Run the car for a while to get to temp. and then drain and blow it out.
|Then you can install the Evans Coolant. This stuff is rather expensive so you will want to make sure you do the prep step and blow our steps before installing it in your system.|
After your finished filing your system then run the car to temp and then you test the fluid to make sure you are less than 5% water content.
If you or your installer do not have a refractometer then you can send a sample to prolubricants for a test.