For autocross and road racing it comes in handy to be able to keep your brakes cool. I had searched around and found these S-197 Brake Ducts by Full Tilt Boogie Racing. These are anodized black aluminum dust shield replacements.
I like this design because not only does the hose placement in the best location but it also has a secondary lip that helps get as much of that cooler air into the rotor cooling vanes as possible.
The Full Tilt unit uses the larger 3 inch tubing. You can also get smaller 2 in hoses, but not with these cooling ducts from Full Tilt. I sourced the front ducts and the hose from a race shop or you can find them on ebay. The whole setup runs just over $200.
|The Inside of the Full Tilt Boogie Brake Ducts for your S-197 Mustang.|
|The Outside of the Full Tilt Boogie Brake Ducts for your S-197 Mustang.|
|The FTBR guys know brakes and are a small shop that loves road racing.|
|Here is the type of duct I used on the bumper. This one I used on the drivers side. It has a 3″ hose outlet.|
|During my test fit with my new 2011 Roush bumper I discovered that the drivers side duct will fit just fine.|
|Here is is mounted on the divers side.|
|On the passenger side it was obstructed by the FMIC piping so I used an offset duct.|
|Here is the offset duct on the passengers side.|
Here is a detail of the bumper duct mounting. I used a black screen mesh and drilled holes and ran black zip ties trough all pieces.
I gave up on a more solid L-bracket because they did not line up well at all. With the zip ties I could control placement with how tight I pulled them.
This is what the screen looks like from the front.
Now moving to the car. Remove your wheel and Brake caliper. Be sure to never let your caliper hang from the brake line. Have a wire or extra jack stand to hold it up.
A wire to hold it up may work better because when you are turning the wheel it could pull the caliper off the stand.
|The spindle duct mounts with the 3 bolts that held on the factory dust shield.|
|Here is a shot from the inside.|
|Attach one side of your hose to the bumper duct and tighten down the hose clamp because you will be pulling on it to get your measurement.|
Turn your wheel so that the spindle is all the way out. Run the hose back and get a measurement on where to cut your hose.
It will flex some so don’t feel like you need any extra. Too much may lead to bunching up and then rubbing on your tire.
|I trimmed the splash shield to let the hose though without interference. I then zip tied it to the frame.|
|Then attach it to the rotor shield. It runs paralel to the front sway bar. I have the Eibach Mustang sway bars installed.|
|On the passengers side I had to push the hose between the IC pipe and the washer fluid tank. I actually found a longer bolt for the bottom mount hole of the tank so it could stand out a bit further and not pinch the hose.|
|If the wheel is turned all he way inside it does rub a bit. I am running a 9.5 in wide wheel with a 275/40 tire. I am not anticipating any issues. I will inspect it after I run on the road course.|
|After taking the first test drive I could hear some noise. It turns out the bottom lip of the control arm was rubbing. See the silver spot below the logo.|
|Here is a shot of that outer lip of the control arm. I took a grinder to it and made room for the shield to move without hindrance.|
|Here it is all fully assembled. I am very eager to see how it performs on the track.|